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Every year my family travels four hundred kilometres to my grandparents' village for Tet.

The takes nine hours because every other family is doing the same thing.

My mother cooks for two days before we leave, and half of it is for the .

At the village, work starts immediately: cleaning, cooking and .

On the first morning we visit eleven houses, and we are offered tea in every one.

My father says that the eleventh cup is harder than the first ten.

The children receive money in red and count it in secret afterwards.

On the third day the village becomes , and my grandmother finally sits down.

Those hours are the part of the holiday I remember later in the year.

The rest is cooking, and the cooking is mostly done by three women.

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